Perfectly positioned between the Atlantic coast and the Pyrenees, Pau is a great base for a vacation in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques. It is the capital of the historic Béarn province in Nouvelle-Aquitaine, and offers excellent dining, shopping, and some interesting sites. Add in a mild climate and easy transport links, and it’s easy to see why Pau makes an ideal weekend getaway. Combine with a few days in Lourdes, Laruns and Vielle-Louron in the Pyrenees, for a fantastic week-long vacation covering city fun, history and nature.
Suggested itinerary:
- 3 nights in Pau
- A day trip to Lourdes
- 1 day in Laruns & the Petit Train d’Artouste
- 3 days relaxing at Nids des Pyrénées in Vielle-Louron
Start with a City Break in Pau
Spending 2-3 days in Pau is a great idea. The historic centre is easily walkable and there are lots of accommodation options.
For a central budget hotel option, the ibis Pau Centre is a reliable option.
A luxury option overlooking Parc Beaumont is the Parc Beaumont Hotel & Spa Pau – MGallery Collection.
For a super central mid-range option, the Appart’City Confort Pau Centre – Appart Hôtel is a good option, especially if travelling with the family.
Visit the Château de Pau
The Château de Pau is a castle best known as being the birthplace of King Henri IV in 1553. While parts of the château date back to the Middle Ages, most of what exists today reflects centuries of additions and renovations.
Inside, the château is now a National Museum filled with beautifully furnished state apartments, tapestries and artwork. The highlight for many visitors is seeing the famous tortoise-shell cradle that, according to tradition, belonged to Henri IV.
Even if museums aren’t usually your thing, the château itself is well worth visiting for its architecture and views.
Walk along Boulevard des Pyrénées
Running for almost two kilometres, the Boulevard des Pyrénées offers amazing views across the foothills to the snow-capped Pyrenees on a clear day.
The boulevard is lined with cafés, restaurants and benches, making it the perfect place to slow down with a coffee or ice cream while enjoying the scenery. If the weather is good, you’ll quickly understand why locals enjoy it here.
Ride the Funicular
Connecting the lower town with the boulevard above is Pau’s historic funicular railway. Opened in 1908, the short journey takes just a couple of minutes and, even better, it’s completely free to use.
Although walking between the two levels is possible, the funicular offers an easy alternative and has become one of Pau’s best-loved landmarks.
Wander the Old Town
Pau’s old town is compact enough to explore on foot. Narrow streets lead past independent boutiques, artisan shops, small squares and attractive cafés.
Place Royale is one of the city’s prettiest squares, while nearby Rue Serviez and Rue Maréchal Joffre offer some of the best shopping in the historic centre.
Unlike some larger French cities, Pau has a relaxed atmosphere. It’s the kind of place where it’s easy to spend an afternoon wandering without feeling the need to rush between attractions.
On the weekend we spent in Pau, there was a big rock concert on Place Clemenceau and the place to buzzing!
Visit Les Halles de Pau
If you enjoy local food, don’t miss Les Halles. This modern indoor market has become one of the city’s social hubs, with dozens of traders selling regional produce.
You’ll find everything from fresh bread and pastries to cheeses, cured meats, seafood and wines from nearby Jurançon. Several stalls also serve ready-to-eat meals, making it an excellent lunch stop.
Visit on Saturday morning if you want to experience the market at its liveliest.
Explore Pau’s Museums
If you have time, Pau has several excellent museums beyond the château.
The Musée des Beaux-Arts houses an impressive collection of European paintings, including works by Rubens, Degas and Monet. It’s surprisingly extensive for a city of Pau’s size and remains one of southwest France’s hidden cultural gems.
Those interested in local history can also visit the Musée Bernadotte, dedicated to Jean-Baptiste Bernadotte, the Pau-born soldier who became King Charles XIV John of Sweden.
Take a Day Trip to Lourdes
We took a day trip to Lourdes from Pau, as it’s only about a 45 minute drive / 40 minutes by train. I’m very glad we only took a day trip and didn’t bother staying overnight, as it is bit of a circus!
Lourdes is an important Catholic pilgrimage site, but you don’t need to be religious to appreciate the place. The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes is a vast complex of churches, chapels and prayer spaces surrounding the famous Grotto of Massabielle.
Millions of visitors travel here each year after the reported apparitions of the Virgin Mary to Bernadette Soubirous in 1858. Pilgrims gather to collect water from the spring believed by many to have healing properties.
The downside to this popularity is that it is full of high-rise hotel and apartment blocks, religious souvenir and tat shops and restaurants that work on volume / numbers over quality.
It wasn’t that busy on our visit due to rain, and we were glad we visited to see the place, but there was a mass-tourism vibe which we found weird given it’s religious significance.
Laruns & the Petit Train d’Artouste
If you are visiting between May and September (dates vary depending on the snow melt), you can take a drive up into the Pyrenees, to Laruns and onto the incredible Petit Train d’Artouste.
This narrow-gauge train takes you winding up into the Ossau Valley and was definitely a highlight of the area for me. Read more about the Petit Train d’Artouste in my blog.
A Few Days in the Mountains
It’s time to escape to the mountains for a few days. Near to both ski fields for winter and hiking trails for summer, the Louron Valley is the perfect mountain break to enjoy after a city break in Pau.
Do something adventurous like paragliding or perhaps something more genteel like canoeing on Génos-Loudenvielle Lake.
Take a hike or swim in a local river, meet the local donkeys that will brae at you across the valley, and take in the natural wonders of the Pyrenees.
Where to stay in the Louron Valley?
Book yourself into Nids des Pyrénées, holiday cottages situated in a gorgeous location in Vielle Louron. Ideal for a family who need two bedrooms, or for a couple who love to sit on a verandah and listen to the birds singing at dusk.
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