Parthenay is a medieval city in the Deux-Sèvres department. With many of the city walls and fortifications still intact, it is a fascinating glimpse into the 13th century lives of the Lords of Parthenay. 17th century additions to the town combine with the ramshackle medieval areas to deliver a delightful city centre. While the modern town that has been built around these areas is uninspiring, a trip to the centre is rewarding.
Where is Parthenay, France?
Parthenay is located in the central area of the Deux-Sèvres department, in the north of Nouvelle-Aquitaine. West of Poitiers, and north of Niort (the prefecture of the Deux-Sèvres), and sits on the Thouet River.
Only an hour away from the Loire Valley, and 1.5 hours from the Atlantic Coast, Parthenay is a great location from which to discover multiple departments.
Hotels in Parthenay
I recommend the Château Maranne, near Église Saint Laurent. This elegant chateau is central and has been renovated beautifully. For something with a more medieval vibe, try the half-timber gîte (vacation rental), Gite Médieval Saint-Nicolas.
If you want a country retreat, within easy reach of Parthenay, try the lovely Chambres d’hôtes Ô 3 Oliviers in Louin, a short 20 minutes north.
Things to do in Parthenay
Chateau du Parthenay
The enchanting thing about Parthenay is the perfectly ordinary way ruins and fortifications are part of the town. They are everywhere and both impressive and, sort of, normal!
The remnants of the 13th-century Château of Parthenay are an impressive reminder of the town’s medieval past. The walls and remaining towers overlook the river, and it’s easy to imagine the defensive role they once played.
Port de l’Horloge & Porte Saint-Jacques
These two gateways are among the town’s most photographed spots. Port de l’Horloge has a distinctive clock tower, while Porte Saint-Jacques leads to one of the Santiago de Compostela routes in France.
These wonderful structures add an air of grandeur to the place – an invitation into the old town, like walking into a fairytale. But by the same token, they are working entrances to fortified part of the town, and car horns may interrupt your reverie!
Fortifications & Viewpoints
Much like the village of Angles sur l’Anglin, the hilltop position of Parthenay has been of great strategic advantage to it over the centuries. These fortifications now provide wonderful viewpoints for tourism. The views of the Thouet River are so pretty.
We even found some goats used as lawnmowers on the steep rock faces that form the base of the fortifications – can you spot them in the photos below?
Churches
The Église Sainte-Croix and Église Saint-Laurent are worth visiting for their Romanesque architecture and historic details. They’re small but give a good sense of the town’s heritage.
Museums
For a deeper look into local history, the Museum of Art and History of Parthenay, next to the Porte Saint-Jacques, offers exhibitions on archaeology, medieval life, and regional art. It’s small but interesting!
Markets & Shopping
Parthenay’s twice weekly market is a must for fresh produce, cheese, and local specialties. Running on Wednesday and Saturday mornings in the covered market (Les Halles), there is also a non-food market in the lower square on Wednesdays.
Throughout the old centre, there are galleries, boutiques and antiques shops too. While Parthenay is best known for its medieval ramparts, we found the old centre quite charming too. The outskirts of the city isn’t as photogenic (modernism isn’t always chic), but there are delightful half-timber houses and cute alleyways to explore in the oldest part of town.
Restaurants in Parthenay centre
- Le Sentier des Saveurs – offering dishes like Parthenaise beef with truffle sauce, and foie gras.
- L’enoteka – a classic bistro with menu du jour items like steak frites and café gourmand.
- Les Templiers – a lovely casual bistro on a square, with great salads and French classics.
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