A nostalgic look at the town of Arcangues in the Basque Country, Pyrénées-Atlantiques; from our guest contributor, Bérengère Bonner-Le Fur. Resting place of Operetta Singer Luis Mariano, and home to a grand château and golf club, see Arcangues through Basque eyes.
Setting the scene
You know how it goes, Crown Prince gets bored with life at court and decides to disguise himself as a regular person. He meets an innocent girl and, because of course he is a bit of a player, decides that it would be great fun to woo her. Bad luck for him, the Girl may be poor but also virtuous and so she refuses him.
The Prince has a vast number of women after him and his crown, but falls naturally in love with the one girl who does not want him. Thus, many games of cat and mouse must be played; but in the end they marry and have many children, and apparently live happily ever after… This same story, played out in fairy tales, movies and theatres seemed to be the script of normality in my childhood.
Luis Mariano
As per the personas he played in his movies, Operetta Singer Luis Mariano was my first prince charming. How dashing he looked in his extravagant outfits, a colourful character even in black and white movies. Proud of his origins, he wore the beret with magnificence and serenaded his audience (mainly ladies) with a deep smooth tenor voice that would make any heart melt.
I was certainly not immune to his Basque charms nor his larger-than-life personality. He may have been in my opinion, one of the first real pop stars of the post war period. Not bad, considering he was born in 1914, and died in 1970, before I was even born. Mariano never married, the reasons for which have been widely disputed over the years. He finally settled in the small village of Arcangues, a few miles from Biarritz, on a farm with cows that apparently were named after many of his female co-stars. An interesting character indeed!
Luis Mariano’s Grave
When I was a child, my ninja warrior grandmother took me walking from the train station in Biarritz to the village of Arcangues, to pay respects to my Prince.
The cemetery itself is a place of beauty. Traditional basque sepultures, engraved with lauburus (symbol of the Basque Country). Graves and wrought iron spill onto the golf course, roll onto the hill; creating an impression of continuum between death and life carrying on. Those eternally residing there must have the most serene view that can be afforded in their predicament.
Prince Charming rests at the lower end of the cemetery; I believe that he must be able to see his farm from here.
The Town of Arcangues
Arcangues is a bijou small but amazingly pretty basque village, as you would imagine from the postcard pictures from the region. From the church car park, you can see the mountain peak of La Rhune in its tall magnificence. Around the village, the Pyrenean moutains provide a breath taking backdrop. Arcangues has plenty of examples of etxea or basque family houses dotted around, reminding you that actual humans live in this heavenly place.
Amenities in Arcangues
Compact as it is, Arcangues has it all. Picturesque buildings with signs written in Euskara, a castle, and a fronton (wall for traditional basque games of pelota among others); a golf course that is occasionally enjoyed by the French president (or so I am told); a couple of restaurants, and a holiday village – all the in the traditional style of the local area.
Where to eat
There are at least five excellent restaurants in Arcangues, one being the actual golf club and two traditional auberges situated in the village.
My Grandmother’s personal recommendation is l’Auberge d’Achtal on the main square, where she had the audacity to dine without me on a previous visit – the sheer cheek of it!
Golf in Arcangues
The golf course in Arcangues has an 18-hole course, driving range, pro-shop and restaurant. The club house is set in a traditional 16th century Basque House, with views out over the Pyrenees. The views from the terrace are a treat in the summer; and the golf course can also be hired for weddings and events.
“L’amour est un bouquet de violettes, il faut lui tendre la main sans attendre a demain” (Love is a bouquet of violets, we must reach out to it without waiting for tomorrow)
Luis Mariano, Violettes impériales (1952)
Where to stay in Arcangues
I recommend the Résidence Pierre & Vacances Les Terrasses d’Arcangues – with views out over the sprawling countryside and a good sized pool. Outside of the town centre, you could also try the Iparra or Lapitxuri Chambre d’Hôtes.
Arcangues is 11km by car from both Biarritz and Bayonne, 38kms from the Spanish border; and 2 hours drive from Bordeaux.
