Cream or cherry? That is the question about Gateau Basque…
There are few arguments in our household, but the main topic of family strife remains this unanswered conundrum; which filling is best in a traditional gateau basque – cream or cherry?
What is Gateau Basque
Gateau basque is one of those lovely moreish and luscious cakes that originates from the provinces of Labourd and south Navarra in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques. It has become more widely consumed in the region from nineteenth century onwards.
Originally consumed only on celebration or feast days, it became popularised by baker Marianne Hirigoyen. She had a patisserie in Cambo Les Bains but started branching out, selling her cakes on the market in Bayonne. Now the famous gateau has become a staple of Basque culture and there is not a trip to Euskara that does not include a purchase of one or many of those delicious treats.
How to bake Gateau Basque
The Cake
The base of the gateau itself keeps within the range of expected ingredients. Butter, flour, sugar, yeast and about 6 eggs – this recipe is good. Some add a drop of lemon into the mixture, which provide an additional refreshing zest to the original taste. Ensure your pastry is properly ‘sablée’ and do not mix it for too long, to ensure that it does not get too gooey.
This is important as I can testify of my many failed attempts to make a solid pastry, only to find myself struggling with lava like mixture that had to be poured into the baking tin, rather than rolled into the two circles needed to complete the intended design. Gateau basque being a ‘sandwich’ sort of cake, you will need two pastry disks that will come either side of the filling of your choice.
The Filling of a Gateau Basque
Cherry Jam
Mr Bonner-le fur, who is not Basque by origin but nevertheless a fierce lover of the region, will profess to prefer what is considered to be the original cherry jam filling.
Black cherries from the area of Itxassou will be familiar to those who enjoy spreading a little sweetness on their slice of ewe cheese; also a regional delicacy.
If you have not tried this before, have a little adventure, your tastebuds will thank you later!
Black cherry jam can be purchased anywhere in France, but Itxassou is where black cherry jam is the best.
Almond & Rum Cream
My preference is for the more complex almond cream and rum combination. Mix some milk and almond powder into a pan with flour, sugar, vanilla extract and eggs and bring to the boil. Turn the heat down, let it simmer into a cream while stirring continuously. Add a little rum to the mixture. Or in my case, a lot of rum!
Reaching a compromise
As for M. Bonner and I, we have reached a compromised by mixing the cherry jam into the rum flavoured filling. Delicious!
The Basque Cross
Having pre-heated your over at 180 degrees, place one disk of pastry at the bottom of a round baking tin, place your filling onto the pastry and cover with the second disk. Spread a little egg yolk on top for this golden finish and, If you are feeling arty, you can draw a lauburu (basque cross) on top of the gateau before taking it into the oven.
Around 25mns later, congratulations on having mastered the art of the Gateau Basque and just in time for some tea!
Tips for your Gateau Basque
- The shape of the lauburu may lead to confusion. It is a rounded four armed cross that represents the four elements. Display it with pride on top of your cake.
- If you dislike rum and cherry in equal manners, other and more recent iterations of the cake include chocolate, citrus and hazelnut.
- If baking is not your thing, you can buy a gateau in practically any supermarket in France and especially in the Basque Country. However, for the absolute gateau experience, the following master bakers have shops in most Basque towns.
- The best gateau can be found in:
– Maison Paries, based in Urrugne but with many other retail outlets – prepare for long queues as they are insanely popular. There is a wide range of flavours on offer and the super trendy branding for a reasonable price.
– Maison Adam, located in Biarritz and St Jean de Luz, have been baking such delicacies as macaroons for over 300 years. They also bake an exquisite traditional gateau basque, aimed at a more affluent market with price to match.
Regional Cuisine – Gateau Basque
Finally, if you are desperate as I was, to learn how to master the perfect gateau basque, you can have lessons at the Musee du Gateau Basque; situated in the charming typical village of Sare.
Because a cake so delicious has to have its own dedicated museum, does it not? English is spoken during the session so language barrier no problem, and the formula includes cake tasting the the opportunity for a delicious lunch at the bodega by the river. Bon Appetit!
