Biarritz is in my Soul

You could say that Biarritz is my spiritual home, for it is in Biarritz that I asked for the first time in my life ‘where am I‘? And found a deep sense of place. During my first visit as a small child, I recollect the awe that I felt all the way down to the ocean. My child eyes widening as we walked along the sharply designed coastline; and the mixed emotions that hit me when we reached the rock of the virgin. A complex mix of fear and adoration that is rekindled at each visit.

The Jewel on the Basque Coast

Biarritz, a petulant jewel on the basque coast of France, has enjoyed a complex history which sets it apart from the chocolate box villages of the surrounding mountains. Particularly favoured by royalty and celebrities alike over the last decades, it has developed into a mixture of decadent Russian churches, and imperial hotels. Alongside spa retreats for the stressed out Parisian in need of urgent sun and sea air. As a result, you could meet anyone on the streets of Biarritz: rock stars, film stars, exiled aristocrats, accountants; and the compulsory tourists which bring a large part of the city’s income during the summer season.

Be seen in Biarritz

Biarritz is essentially a ville balneaire. A sea spa of old, but still much enjoyed by tourists from all over the world. It is easier of access thanks to its newish airport and well developed transport network which will shuttle you from your hotel to the beach at no cost all summer.  Of course,  traffic is nightmarish and parking is practically impossible all summer. But since the local public transport is so plentiful and all the amenities you need are probably at walking distance anyway, you can probably leave the car where you left it for the duration. Just enjoy ‘being seen’ in Biarritz for the summer season!

From Boutiques to Beaches

As a holiday destination it is an ideal location, mixing the beauty of the wild ocean and its surfing schools, the richness of the local culture, the picturesque pedestrian streets. Along with its exclusive yet affordable boutiques, its unique locally produced macaroons and ice cream parlours. Where no combination of flavours has remain unexplored.

A Perfect Day in Biarritz

An ideal day in Biarritz begins at ‘Les Halles’, the local covered market in the centre of the pedestrian area. One might say that it is never too early for an attack on the senses, but you will get overwhelmed in a good way. By the rich smells of freshly brewed coffee, the abundance of meats and cheeses stalls, and green and red peppers aplenty. There’ll be gateaux basque, and a sheer abundance of fresh produce everywhere you look. And the noise, the happy hustle and bustle of the market which makes you hungry for the next phase. Which is to enjoy an aperitif of txakoli and tapas on the terrace of one of the surrounding eateries. This may be swiftly followed by a lunch of Axoa; a traditional dish made of veal and indeed, red and green peppers.

Then have a well deserved nap…

The Beaches of Biarritz

In the afternoon you shall enjoy looking at the ocean from one of the many beaches. La grande plage, busy and family friendly, offers kids clubs and a view of the imperial Hotel du Palais. As well as the imposing lighthouse which are a compulsory feature of any Biarritz postcard. The Plage de la cote des Basques is most favoured by surfers. Only accessible by low tide, its topography enhances the surfing experience but the mountain views in the distance are breathtaking. The Milady beach is favoured by locals for its daily walking opportunities.

My favourite is the Plage du Port Vieux. Small and intimate, this beach is sheltered from wind and large waves and is best for families and young children.  A group of seniors, the white bears club, enjoy their annual New Year’s Day bath on this beach. I envy their determination in the face of freezing waters. Most of all, the beach of the Port Vieux gives you the opportunity to swim all the way to the statue of the virgin. Who, from the great height of her rock, contemplates your efforts.

And the rest…

Of course if the beach is not for you, Biarritz offers a multitude of alternative activities. Golf courses, museums, walks, and sporting activities, a genuine turkish hammam, without mentioning the shopping opportunities, which are manifold. And did I mention the ice cream?

As any decent seaside resort would have it, restaurants, bars and night clubs are widely available in Biarritz during the summer season. And the choices are plentiful and can accommodate all budgets. 

My Biarritz

On a personal level, my love for Biarritz is compounded by my love of people whose final resting place is there. Luis Mariano, operetta singer and first real life prince charming, is buried in the charming village of Arcangues four miles away, which in itself is worthy of a visit. French singer and total legend Daniel Balavoine, is buried across the road from the airport. I visit regularly.

Going to Biarritz for me is like going home and when I leave the place, I start counting the days, hours and minutes until my next visit. I miss the place like crazy. Meanwhile, the virgin on the rock is patiently waiting for me to be scattered at her feet, finally home…

Biarritz Recommendations

• If Biarritz is too glamorous for you, try St jean de Luz
• Too quiet? Try the fetes de Bayonne
• Too small? Cross the Spanish border to San Sebastian
• Not spicy enough? Drive to Espelette
• Too basque? Behave yourself!

PIN IT FOR LATER…

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